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When curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble place securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary honour.